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28天,流浪印度16城

  • 出发时间/2015-12-09
  • 出行天数/28 天
  • 人物/一个人
  • 人均费用/1500RMB







       2014年去过一次印度,当时签证很麻烦,从吉隆坡转机的,一句英语不会讲,走了印度三个城,坐嘟嘟车手机摔坏,没东西拍照了,就临时起意回国。回来后一直忘不了印度。于是这次又踏上了一个人的旅途。办的电子签,超级方便,简单,450元。英语稍微会沟通点衣食住行了。只带了230美金,没错,就是打算来吃苦,28天只花230美金,经过16个最想去的城市。时间好赶,好了,不多说了,从第一城开讲。 
 
 
       第一城---金奈。天亮出机场大门时,热度刚好,气氛安宁,没人理会,刚想说~看来这座印度第四大城市打理得不错。还没到几秒,突然一帮出租车嘟嘟车司机把我团团围住,开始了还价的拉锯战。笼罩在把人吵得精神失常的马路上的各种杂音里,一个新的世界拉开了帷幕,早有准备,呵呵呵呵呵!天桥到处生锈。 


       市区旁边的贫民窟:图一~金奈刚刚经过百年一遇到的洪水,图二这辆车子是来贫民窟发放物质,帮海报上的女省长拉选票。


骑摩托的小男生不好意思面对镜头,蓝衣少年把他小身板板过来。车子都不让人,等了二十分钟不敢过马路,总算有个修自行车老头要过,赶紧巴着他过马路

图八九~大学校园内也到处垃圾

等了二十分钟不敢过马路,总算有个修自行车老头要过,赶紧巴着他过马路.

       在金奈这两晚,住在一位沙发客的公司宿舍,是一位QQ好友介绍的,这位沙发客是江苏人,外号江南才子,在金奈工作多年。人很好又帅,有小伙伴们要去金奈住宿的,我可以帮忙介绍。他做了牛肉锅给我吃,在印度这样尊崇神牛的地方,竟然有牛肉卖,惊喜。他宿舍的厨房一应俱全,看到那么多熟悉的食材,当归,枸杞,酱油香醋,都是印度没有的。印度带叶子的蔬菜很少,唯有中式的做法,哪怕是最简单的食材,也立马满锅鲜香。天哪,还有老干妈,简直让人激动得手忙脚乱,哈哈。


江南才子让印度员工送我去火车站,真是难得的VLP服务,之后我的日子就很艰难了,每次去买票,问路都很心酸,怪当初不好好学英语。俗话说由奢入简难,由简入奢易,我倒要反其道而行之

第一张火车票买的豪华卧铺,这是唯一一张安心睡觉的,之后的目的地全部买站票,有两座城还是逃票,呵呵。明天早上将抵达小城迈索尔

        第二城---迈索尔。火车站隔壁一家豪华餐厅,点的最贵的套餐,85卢比(人民币9块)四个酱料碟,四份小点心,分别不同口味,有的辣到舌根,有的甜得可以作为糖尿病者自杀用的,有的超怪味...印度果然是香料大国,只有大饼不错,不过里面的咖里也是伤不起。迈索尔到处有宫殿,寺庙,有印度最大的宫殿群,最出名的是三座宫殿。买票自然要选择去最奢华的大皇宫~图一至六,本地人40卢比,外国人200卢比,总体还可以,如果拿来和故宫比较,就会没啥看头。图七八~逛街路过另两座小皇宫。

        第二次去那家餐厅,只点一份大饼。没想到正啃饼时,隔壁桌一家子非常亲切的穆斯林家庭给我点了一碗咖哩菜送到桌上~图二。啊!!难道都知道:贫僧从东土大唐而来,囊中羞涩,因此化缘予我。吃不惯咖哩啦,但出于感谢,还是狠下心来刮得干干净净。

第三城---亨比。12月是印度的冬季,南印度的清晨也是冷得要死,今早在亨比火车站下车后,茫然四顾,没做攻略就是这样:我在哪里?从何而来?去向何处?要呆多久?该去哪逛?哪有无线网?此地有何妙处?完全一无所知

但能确认亨比这个地方肯定很不一般。说实在吧,去过长城,去过兵马俑,去过吴哥窟,去过蒲甘,无感。而此刻在这个被石头和河流围绕的小村庄,却发觉,这种荒凉枯燥到极致的古老,让人神动。因为在这片陈旧面前,只剩沉默,有些事物,是我们永远都到达不了的目的地。

       亨比是位于霍斯佩特的一坐古老村庄,是14~16世纪印度某个帝国的首都~胜利城,已被列为世界文化遗产。走进这里,就像打开时光的大门,山上的巨石,水中的怪石,精致的宫殿,众多的庙宇......成龙的‘神话’有部分场景就是在这里拍的。

一边吐槽发明出这种用薯条搭配米饭而且菜饭口感都如此极致的人,简直是屎壳郎成精,一边还是把整盘子都吃完了,没办法,资深的强迫症患者

        乘小圆船到河对面看巨石,很多人在河里洗澡,喜欢这里胜过恒河边的瓦纳那西,不会再去瓦纳西,不觉得看个烧尸就能感悟生命的意义,死亡不是很稀松平常吗?仪式无非只是仪式。也不会再去加尔各答做义工,内心没有慈悲和平静,如何能帮助别人。

不要非常热烈的喜欢某样东西,也别叹息,一切终将成为万年堆积的历史的尘埃。更别让生活复杂化,把超重的行李物品丢了或送人罢,太沉了。图中的小店在放1956年经典电影流浪者主题曲~拉慈之歌,感动!遥记90年代初侗乡煤矿放露天电影,这部片子和少林寺轮流放几天,小伙伴们拎着板凳葵花籽一块去看

       出去转了半天,才发现之前看到的只是沧海一粟,连绵起伏,到处是巨石和田园,面对它们,只会太过冷静,因为不想融入其中,因为不能通透的看待历史,但又不得不震撼。
有个小孩跟了我半天,一直在讲话。我想着他跟了那么久啥好处也没捞着,怪不好意思滴,就主动给他10卢比(主动的,他也没问我要钱)哎,以前还义愤填膺某些寨子如岜沙的小孩爱跟游客要钱该管了,原来就是给我们这些土鳖游客惯出来的

在大热天的正午,爬到这座著名的mathanga山顶上,一览众石小。看到全景时,为之倾倒。突然没来由的痛心疾首,寻思了半天终于找着原因,只因为~木有自拍杆!这么安静又美的地方,却没有自拍杆留个影,情何以堪。世间还有无私无暇的东西吗,有的,恍惚中没有期待的挂念,才最简单纯粹。在山顶上多呆会,多呆会,把你的名字默念在风里,把岁月的遗落一一填补,把空白的回忆慢慢想起。好了,不矫情了

马上赶去火车站坐通宵火车,明早~印度最迷人城市之一果阿

某个扯谈的印度阿三,告诉我昨晚八点半有到果阿的火车,结果到了火车站得知当天压根没车,去果阿的火车隔一天才有,只得在火车站呆一宿。前几天还有跟人说过有可能真的哪天在火车站过夜印度真是个神奇国度,能实现你的一切心愿,这么快就实现了。先在舒服的女士等车室(里面还配有冲凉房)呆到12点~图一。然后在图二这儿盘腿坐着睡了一会,直到一个欧洲女生叫醒我,我们去了候车大厅,弄到了两张椅子,一人躺一个,刚觉得安逸,身后就出现一人~图三,一直在大声自言自语还唱歌,吵得没法。 等到凌晨五点半的火车(先到霍比利再转车去果阿)一位也在等车的胖哥,怕我走错车厢,带着我一路小跑找车厢。我上车后,之前那个唱歌男也突然上了这节车厢,胖哥可能怕万一他不太正常,
跟他说了半天把他劝下车。看到我没位置坐,他又把我带去女士车厢。然后他在车下挥手告别。
女士车厢很挤,大妈们都没位置坐,却都让我到旁边的上铺挤着坐下。这上铺没梯子,我只得发挥开挂精神

两手撑床,一下子跳上床。闻到一大股尿味,原来有一块绿色尿布挂在顶灯上,差点碰到我的脸,我滴个神!上午九点,发现已坐过站,找不着鞋子,地上全是行李,眼看车子快开就光脚下车了。全车厢的妇孺都在疯狂翻行李帮忙找鞋,翻出五六双鞋问是不是我的,我都nonono,直到最后一双,车子已发动,赶紧一把接住,之前踩到的牛屎,顿时糊了一手

哈哈!真是一个欢乐的早晨。

流落到一个不知名的杂乱的印度小镇,辗转多次公交,才找到了直到果阿的班车,颠簸了五个小时才到。发现这边不管是公交还是长途班车,售票员都穿着制服,随身带着一小口哨,吹口哨提示上下车,挺有意思。前往果阿的班车,半路上来一位一米九几的欧美帅哥。到了果阿后,我们一块去海边找旅馆,一块晚饭。帅哥的眼睛一般不都长头顶上吗

不过这位普鲁士的帅哥却相当相当谦和。他向我请教了一下关于玄奘和尚,只得翻词典 ,拼凑句子向他解释老半天,累得吐血。他英语也不好,大多单词都看不懂。我想象中欧洲人都会英语,原来不是这样滴。

       第四城---果阿果阿总共七个沙滩,各有特色,先逛了最精华的两个。小镇上应有尽有,还有KFC。不过我一天只吃一顿饭,且仅限于印度小吃。其实,越是每天的生活需要大量消耗能量,越是没有太多需求。 
果阿的教堂,各有风格。大热天背着包暴走,也不觉得多累。在印度大概每一天平均都得走10公里以上。旅行不是完成任务,旅行应该是休闲度假,但对我而言~这一次不算旅行,仅仅是苦修。

      普鲁士帅哥得知我去孟买,刚好他去克久拉霍也要从孟卖转车,想一块坐车,看着他求罩的小眼神,只好答应了。转了三趟公交到火车站后,只有站票卖。他想去问有没去孟卖的夜班巴士,我很坚决说只坐火车,他只得硬着头皮上车,找了好多节车厢,无果,我们便坐在充满了汗臭味和粉尘味的过道上。等到凌晨,有了空床位,他说他没有这儿的票不能去躺,我一篇篇重申:这是在印度印度印度...他还是不愿,直到旁边印度人说没问题,他才去睡。印度的火车不检票不查票,上车要是看到空床,赶紧节约时间倒头就睡,不然说不定下一站,票的主人就上车了。
       普鲁士原来属于德国,怪不得他身上体现德国人的严谨一丝不苟守秩序。苦了他了,今天在孟卖火车站告别时,他还在感冒咳嗽,
哎,一米九七的大男孩,傻萌傻萌,也没吃过啥苦吧,就因一念之差,跟着女民工混,度过了一个终身难忘的夜晚,差点丢了半条命。

       第五城---孟买。今天从孟卖火车站转市区火车来南孟卖时,车里有位短头发的妙龄少女走过来给了我一块糖~图一,
我知道今天会非常非常美好!走了两小时,才找到一家1923年开设的老字号饭店,想来一品有名的手抓饭,
哪晓得营业时间只限于中午12点到四点,过时不候,气得七窍生烟!孟买原来是个海滨城市,海水很脏,
落日和气氛依然甚觉美好。 在海边偷拍了几对情侣的背影

没想到,天黑时我问路问到一对情侣,
他俩叫个的士亲自送我回去,还不让我开的士钱。女生高挑又漂亮,让男朋友在的士里等候,她亲自送我进楼层上电梯到房间里,才放心离去,难道我外表很黛玉

总之开心又感动!

孟买每天中午的一大常态:被英女皇称为0失误系统~送餐工,上班族的家人为了饭菜新鲜,掐点做好午饭,就请送餐工上门拿饭盒,通过手推车自行车(中间有时转接七八次)~及时送到上班族(类似国内白领)的公司里,下午再把空饭盒送回每户家庭。送餐工大部分不识字,但保证及时不出错,这就是匠人精神。据说,最不爱跳槽的是印度人,这点要反思啦。以前去面试,总给老板一种暗示:放心吧,我会做长久的,你看我老实忠厚的脸,绝不三天雨两天网

结果呢,没多久又找借口辞职。喜欢像孟买这样虽是大城市,反而保留最多传统人力工作的地方。

       孟卖我最想去的地方其实是~全世界第二大贫民窟,100万人挤在2平方公里的地方,也是电影‘贫民窟的百万富翁’
拍摄地。经过的很多人都在喊china,china。看来中国越来越有影响力,这里的每个人都下意识,无意识的猜测我来自china,
而不是韩国日本。微型电影院,图三:老板不肯收钱,进去看了会,全都坐地上,只有一个人坐椅子,看我进来就让给我坐
(果然曾是英国殖民地,绅士风度还是不错)片子很老,印度人对电影的热情很赞,每一个人,在还有梦,还能感动和欢笑的时候,
就不应停止看电影,电影可以让心年轻,让梦更美。看电影出来,拿可乐给我,也不肯收钱,
喝了后才想起朋友提醒过:千万别喝别人递的饮料,也罢,喝就喝了。老板和他弟弟问清我从市区哪来后,热情洋溢带我到车站,
等等,我还没逛完贫民窟,不想走啦,可他俩都听不明白,在站台笑着挥手告别,
我又不好意思不上车

       130多年历史的露天洗衣场,每天有1000来个洗衣工在这里洗刷刷。洗衣工每天到居民家里收衣服,洗完晒干后,再挨家挨户送回去,说实在,洗衣机肯定没有手洗的干净。红衣服的洗衣工,挺帅滴。


一路走来,欧美游客都少,更别说看见亚洲面孔,虽然知道我这东方脸吃香,但应该是在乡村或小城嘛,不至于是在孟卖~这里可是国际大都市,没想到在水上清真寺被前后左右围观,上来合影的至少三十拨,图~用手机反拍的在拍我的人。哈哈,偷偷反拍

下午买票要去焦特布尔时,懒得填表(其实也不必填)旁边一男士怕我万一不好买票,非帮我详细填表

上火车后,我把包放行李架,去其他车厢找空位,找到了一个空床,躺上去忽忽大睡,睡了几小时后想拿睡袋,想不起放包的车厢在哪,一脸迷茫之际,四五个持枪的疑似警察过来询问,带我跨多节车厢找背包,后得知包被热心群众交给某个车站的警务室了。

尔后一个20多岁的男生(叫sky)把我带到他对面一个空床去躺,冻得要命迷糊之际,他给我披了一张薄毯子。早上,他一再问我有多少钱,要我给他看下,看我钱太少,他与身边另一位男生(叫西)两人一块掏钱,给我,当然我死活没要,我的财物又没丢,都在贴身大花包里啦

。他俩是通过我认识的,肯定会成为好朋友

到了焦特布尔,sky陪我到车站乘务室说明情况,最后得知我的背包在五百公里以外,让我明早过来拿。sky走了后(火车已开走,他只有转巴士回家)我坐办公室充会电,两位大叔拿来水饼干和奶茶给我早餐,哈哈。

第六城---焦特布尔,所有换洗衣物用品都木有了,轻装上路,反而更觉愉快,明天能不能拿到背包也无所谓了。奔波千里,只为与蓝色一见倾情。虽然蓝色之城焦特布尔,并非传说中的梦幻蓝,蓝色房子仅仅是星星点点在其中。那又如何,我不向往希腊爱情海纯净的淡蓝,也不向往摩洛哥老城迷离的地中海蓝。为你而来,只对你情有独钟!穿上了莎丽~哥姐叔姨们欢笑着向我走来,索合影。坐了二十小时火车,导致我的脸太肿了,比谁的都大,必须挡

印度人超喜欢拍照或被拍,那就不见外,互相尽情拍

中世纪般的集市,恢宏的城堡,旅馆天台的餐厅,有点小文艺。点了一份鸡肉biryani(其实就是炒饭)远处的城堡在灯光里弥漫远古的气息,面对这巍峨的山,沐浴风中异乡的气息,原来终究还是没有见到记忆中的你,原来我看到的风景中出现的那颗星,只是落寞,尽管如此,初心还是不愿变。早上,在火车站拿到了背包(工作人员送了甜咖啡和饼干)写了份感谢信,语法混乱就算了,英文字让人不忍直视 ---图一。
小卖部的水果啤酒和煎鸡蛋很正口碑也好,打破了我在印度一天只吃一餐的惯例(家在远方,肥在眼前

)老板拿着我的手机自拍

我兴致好给他写了份留言---图二。写汉字也是被人下了降头,呜呜

 哼,竟然不七了
哥姐叔姨们欢笑着向我走来,索合影。坐了二十小时火车,导致我的脸太肿了,比谁的都大。印度人超喜欢拍照或被拍,那就不见外,互相尽情拍

本篇游记共含5892个文字,81张图片。帮助了游客。 举报

引用 庄生晓梦 的图片:

喔喔

2016-03-23 17:48

图不错,有什么故事可以听听吗?

2016-03-23 17:52

好,期待更新。

2016-03-23 18:47

应该没有写完吧,16城哦,速更速更

2016-03-23 19:11
正在参与蚂蜂窝拍卖行
我也去看看
5F

2016-03-23 20:16

借个地 打扰了

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http://imgur.com/ZWNAVvk

2016-03-23 20:59

2016-03-24 06:44

引用 庄生晓梦 的图片:

其实他们很穷,但他们都很快乐开心

2016-03-24 06:57

2016-03-24 09:49

赞!

2016-03-24 09:52

lz也多多分享一下攻略嘛,想去看看。

2016-03-28 12:52

引用 鱼眼图画 发表于 2016-03-23 17:48:57 的回复:

喔喔

回复鱼眼图画:正在更新,每天抽一点时间回忆哈

2016-03-31 17:45

引用 zengqing 发表于 2016-03-23 17:52:04 的回复:

图不错,有什么故事可以听听吗?

回复zengqing:马上,后面更精彩

2016-03-31 17:45

引用 跟我走四方 发表于 2016-03-23 18:47:24 的回复:

好,期待更新。

回复跟我走四方:谢谢,尽快

2016-03-31 17:46

引用 独自醉倒 发表于 2016-03-23 19:11:19 的回复:

应该没有写完吧,16城哦,速更速更

回复独自醉倒:快了,今天抽空更了一点

2016-03-31 17:46

引用 聊发少年狂 发表于 2016-03-23 20:16:29 的回复:

回复聊发少年狂:

2016-03-31 17:47

引用 shiguangbuzai 发表于 2016-03-23 20:59:25 的回复:

借个地 打扰了

http://imgur.com/l7FU8IP
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回复shiguangbuzai:别

2016-03-31 17:47

引用 小西畅游 发表于 2016-03-24 06:44:29 的回复:

回复小西畅游:

2016-03-31 17:48

引用 快乐旅途 发表于 2016-03-24 06:57:03 的回复:

其实他们很穷,但他们都很快乐开心

回复快乐旅途:是的,印度人天性热情乐观

2016-03-31 17:49

引用 幼幼奶茶 发表于 2016-03-24 09:52:43 的回复:

赞!

回复幼幼奶茶:xie

2016-04-06 11:42

引用 gaoqingyu 发表于 2016-03-28 12:52:50 的回复:

lz也多多分享一下攻略嘛,想去看看。

回复gaoqingyu:

2016-04-06 11:43

楼主,还不更新吗???

2016-11-09 12:59
此评论来自蚂蜂窝自由行APP蚂蜂窝自由行APP
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